Another Christmas in Cambodia, Insert Dead Kennedy’s Humor Here

My second Christmas in Cambodia is coming up in a few days. I thought I’d be going home for the holidays this year, but other responsibilities intervened, and now I’m spending another December 25th in Phnom Penh.

Christmas is just a day, and furthermore, a religous holiday celebrating a religious belief I don’t adhere to – but my family’s secular Christmases are always pretty good fun. I mostly miss cooking inordinate amounts of unhealthy food and uncorking a lot of high-end champagne, under the all-powerful and all-encompassing pretense of It’s the Holidays, Dammit.

Shut up and drink your champagne and eat your prime rib, your left-overs, the candy your parents were kind enough to hide in your stocking even you were well past your sell-by date and should have known better.

There was also the drive-into San Francisco either a couple of days before or after Christmas – this a tradition I am fully in favor of, crowds in Union Square and overpriced household goods be damned, in the grandest tradition of smushing one’s face against the Williama’s Sonoma display and complaining about the fact that the department stores have done a lousy job with their blow-out display windows for a while now, which can be blamed on the recession.

Back in the days when I used to want cooking goods for Christmas – having had no kitchen for a year and a half, it’s a bit more of a hazy concept, like a sort of vestigal limb, if a skill can be called “vestigal.” These San Francisco holiday visits would usually end in Chinese food somewhere in the vicinity of Chinatown, which had red and gold trim and was sort of Christmasy no-matter what time of year it was, what with all the sparkly lights.

Feels a lot less like Christmas here this year than last year. Not for lack of trying on Cambodia’s part. Even as compared to last year, the decorations and the tinsel and the trees and the Santa outfits and everything else are all stepped up. Santa visits children outside the Canon store on Sihanouk, I swear to God the gigantic inflatable Santa on Monivong is BIGGER this year, and seemingly everybody has got a Christmas tree in their shopfront or restaurant.

The religions meet, intertwine: people loop colorful lights around the family spirit house. Christmas is a secular holiday for me and it is a secular holiday for Cambodians: this I understand. What do Cambodians do on Christmas? According to a few people I have asked, about what my family does: “We get together and we eat a lot of food, and we drink a lot. We give presents.”

It is a congenial holiday. I just got around to listening to Bing Crosby and Nat King Cole today out of a rather faded sense of duty. I seem to be forgetting the words but it is likely I will re-learn them.

I’ll be adding photos to my Christmas in Cambodia gallery up until the day, and probably after as well.

Happa: Japanese Teppanyaki Cuisine in Phnom Penh

Happa
#17, Street 278
Phnom Penh
Tel: 077749266

I realized recently that the restaurants I eat at the most here in Phnom Penh are rarely the ones I review. Something about incredible familiarity makes me less likely to go ahead and haul the camera with me and do the review – so I’m glad I finally got around to Happa, a great little Japanese/Khmer teppanyaki joint on backpacker-beloved street 278. I happen to frequent the place at least once a week, as do many other long-term expats, who appreciate the reasonable prices and quiet, civilized atmosphere.


Happa’s pork stir-fried with sesame.

The menu focuses on Japanese small plates, prepared in front of you on the restaurant’s big iron griddle, which makes for some rather interesting visuals and assurance that you’re getting pretty fresh food. There’s sauteed small plates of meats and vegetables, main-course dishes with steak, pork, and lamb, salads and fried specialities, and even Japanese pizza or “okonamayaki,” a cabbage and flour pancake topped with bacon and cheese.

The teriyaki chicken here is excellent, nice and tender and not too salty, with some dark meat bits thrown in, which I infinitely prefer. I like to eat this with the oyster mushrooms sauteed in butter.

I’m also a big fan of the fresh tofu salad, which has soft tofu, seaweed, sesame and lettuce tossed in a vinegary-heavy dressing. A nice light stomach-friendly meal. My only complaint with Happa is that the cooks sometimes take too heavy a hand with the salt-shaker, but the issue seems to have been weeded out in the last month or two.

Read more at Things I Ate in Cambodia…

Suzume: Homey Japanese Food in Dark Heart of Phnom Penh

Suzume
14A Street 51
092 748 393
Phnom Penh

Phnom Penh has more Japanese restaurants than I ever expected it to have, mostly due to the city’s healthy (and apparently chronically starving) population of Japanese NGO workers. Most Japanese restaurants here are of the rustic variety, specializing more in curries, soups, ramen and gyoza, rather than more complicated and delicate affairs like sushi.

Expat-beloved and low-key Suzume, however, has a phone-book size menu with most standard Japanese dishes, including ramen and gyoza, a variety of tempura, and even a selection of sushi rolls.

Downside: everything is more expensive than it is at other “mid-range” Japanese places in town, including ramen at $7, which I think is a bit ridiculous in Cambodia. Bowl o’ noodles, like everyone else eats here, just from Japan.

Edamame:possibly the perfect snack, tragically a bit hard to find here, or at least in the awesome pre-packaged microwave pack format you can find the stuff in Northern California. Buttery nutrient rich deliciousness, all natural, hard to object in any way.

Suzume does a pretty good turn in shrimp and vegetable tempura, which can be fried into a chewy, immense mass of suck and here is light and airy in the best Japanese fashion. Fried seaweed in batter is curiously delectable. I do not know how they turn shrimp into shrimp *poles* like this but it is rather impressive. Probably involves deveining, maybe crustacean torture, I don’t know.

Read more at Things I Ate in Cambodia….

Mekong Korean: Food for Pretending It Is Cold Outside

Mekong Korean Restaurant
Sothearos Drive
Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Korean restaurants are rife in Phnom Penh, and family restaurant Mekong Korean occupies a convenient location in the very center of the city. Dishing up rustic versions of Korean standards such as bi-bim-bap, tofu stew, stir-fried pork with red pepper and chicken stews, the restaurant has an entirely nondescript interior, few Western customers, and background music trending towards “Christian Celtic Songs Of the 90’s.” I find it all rather relaxing in a surrealist dream way.

My favorite dish here is definitely the bulgogi stew at $8. It’s not really bulgogi – they use ground beef here – but I love the slightly sweet, beefy, sesame infused broth. It’s served with cabbage, carrots, sesame seeds, onions, and a bunch of enoki mushrooms. All the vegetation can make you pretend you’re being healthy. Also a great option when dining with people who are red pepper averse, which is a serious, serious malfunction in Korean restaurants.

Another good dish here is Korean chicken stew, an exceptionally homey dish of braised chicken in a spicy red pepper sauce with potatoes, capsicum, onions, and chilis. It’s spicy and delightfuly rustic at the same time. Great over rice, big pieces of skin-on, bone in chicken, something you’d make yourself in cool weather. It’s almost getting into the low seventies at night in Phnom Penh now so I feel cold-weather food is entirely justified. It’s around $14 for 2, and the stew’s serving size was big enough that Giant Iowa Boyfriend and I could share it and be more than satiated.

Read more at Things I Ate in Cambodia….

Hey Newt Gingrich, Come Visit Cambodia to See How Awesome Child Labor Can Be

Newt "Fight Child Unemployment" Gingrich

Newt’s War on Poor Children – NY Times

Newt Gingrich, American Republican candidate and professional blowhard, has recently decided that poor children’s primary problem isn’t economic inequality and a lack of access to quality education: it’s laziness.

After calling out US child labor laws as “truly stupid” and suggesting that schools employ poor kids as janitors, the Newt continued the line of thought at an Iowa campaign stop.

“Really poor children, in really poor neighborhoods have no habits of working and have nobody around them who works so they have no habit of showing up on Monday,” Gingrich claimed.

“They have no habit of staying all day, they have no habit of I do this and you give me cash unless it is illegal,” he added.

Yep, that’s right: According to Newt Gingrich, poor kids are lazy bums. Unless they are selling drugs, in which case they apparantly turn into tireless hunters for that highly immoral buck.

Here’s an idea: I propose to Newt Gingrich that he visit Cambodia to get a glimpse at how awesome child labor can be. I’ll take him on a personal “child labor” tour of Cambodia, and I won’t even make him pay me.

Cambodia’s progressive and well-thought out child labor “laws” and lack of compulsory education mean that thousands upon thousands of poor Cambodian children work long hours, day after day.

Poor rural Cambodian kids work the rice paddies, tend the family cattle, make bricks, preserve fish, make salt, and perform hundreds of other menial and often dangerous jobs – which take precedence over school for families just barely scraping by.

(It should be noted that these kids often must work simply to survive—and a blanket prohibition of child labor could mean serious, serious problems for entire families).

Children in urban and heavily touristed areas work day and night selling trinkets, souvenirs, and flowers to Cambodian and Western customers, while others pick for trash by the riverside, along the streets, and at the trash-dump.

Tragically, some of these children sell their bodies—but I would like to imagine that kind of child labor isn’t the sort Mr Gingrich would condone.

What about school?

Well, Cambodia’s public schools (such as they are) are underfunded and underattended, and in Newt’s perfect world, I suspect American public schools in poor neighborhoods wouldn’t be getting too much assistance either.

Free school lunches, art classes, and music lessons? That’s just spoiling the little punks rotten.

Far better for those poor children from urban neighborhoods or poor rural enclaves to be selling non-illegal products on the street, picking the street for cans – hey, America has a litterbug problem too! – and using their tiny, nimble little hands to sew shirts in garment factories.

After all, poor immigrant American kids in the 19th and early 20th century spent their days in poorly ventilated industrial factories, operating dangerous machinery for little to no pay. Surely kids in 2011 can do the same if we repeal a few pesky laws – or just ignore them entirely, as Cambodia does.

I think Newt has got me convinced.

Child labor is exactly what is making Cambodia great – and it’s what can make the USA great again.

After all, Cambodian children may be poor, but they certainly aren’t lazy. Overworked, deprived of an education, and trapped in a cycle of poverty? Well, yes.

But they’re not lazy, and to Newt, that’s apparently the most important part of the equation. I hope Newt takes me up on this visit to Cambodia idea.

I’m certain it will give him lots of great ideas for using child labor to solve urban poverty in the USA!

Cambodia Makes Surprising Progess in Fighting HIV/AIDS: Some *Good* News

Image ganked from these guys: http://www.gayographic.org/en/?tag=world-aids-day

Cambodia has made surprisingly decent progress in fighting HIV/AIDS, and it’s worth noting a piece of good news out of a country that tends to attract the most dire sort of press coverage. (Present company pleads guilty).

In a UNDP report released for World Aids Day that appeared in my inbox this morning detailing the incredibly damaging effects of HIV and AIDS on household spending in Asia, Cambodia stood out as the one bright spot.

Although HIV-affected households spend three times more on healthcare than unaffected households in India, Vietnam, and Indonesia, that’s not the case in Cambodia: here, anti-retroviral treatment is essentially covered in full by the government.

Furthermore, the UNDP noted that women with AIDS and HIV are less discriminated against when it comes to getting both adequate hospital care and access to drugs than they are elsewhere in Asia.

This, I think, may be part of the pay-off for Cambodia’s war against HIV/AIDS. The HIV/AIDS prevalence rate among those aged 15-49 dropped to 0.8 percent in 2010, from 0.9 percent in 2008 and a disturbing 2.5 percent in 1998. The Cambodian National Aids Authority hopes to drop that rate to 0.5 percent by 2015, and to zero by 2025.

There’s more: according to Teng Kunthy, secretary General of the National Aids Authority, 80 percent of pregnant women get their blood tested for HIV/AIDS, as opposed to 30 percent only three years ago. Currently, the mother to child infection rate stands at 8 percent – this massive increase in blood testing is expected to drop the rate to 5 percent by 2015, and completely eradicate such infections by 2020. This seem optimistic, but I’ll let it stand.

HIV/AIDS in Cambodia is not all puppies and roses, of course. According to the National Aids Authority, Cambodia has an estimated 67,000 people living with HIV/AIDS, and 6,000 of these sufferers are children. 2,500 died from HIV/AIDS in 2011, and 2,780 died in 2010 However, the Aids Authority believes 96% of these sufferers have received anti-retroviral medications.

Unfortunately, the National Aids Authority faces serious budget shortfalls. “We have a 50 percent budget shortfall annually” said Mr Kunthy in the Xinhua piece, who added that only about half of the $58 million needed for the 2011 to 2015 budget—collected from international donors—has been secured.

“With the shortage, we have to narrow our activities and just give the focus mainly on the most vulnerable groups,” Mr Kunthy told Xinhua. What a shame.

Hun Sen made a World Aid’s Day statement, which you can read if you can read Khmer. And I can’t. Someone should be a pal and translate it.

Noam Chomsky: The Khmer Rouge Were Actually Pretty OK, Guys

Chomsky: Khmer Rouge? Shmer rouge!

Khmer Rouge Apologist Noam Chomsky: Unrepentant

Journalist Nate Thayer conducts a rousing take-down of linguist Noam Chomsky’s astoundingly long-standing denial of Khmer Rouge atrocities. Chomsky, as of 2011, still refuses to join the leftist Khmer Rouge apologists of the 1970’s in taking back his earlier works.

No, he still believe the Khmer Rouge atrocities were a mass fabrication, and he still believes that a vast media – and refugee? – conspiracy came together to unfairly demonize the Khmer Rouge. Also, it’s all America’s fault. Someone get this guy on Nuon Chea’s defense team.

I have not bothered to read any of Chomsky’s work previously, and judging from Thayer’s description of his opinions, I doubt I will do so in the future. (Maybe for sheer comedy value, or if I am in the mood to feel extremely angry, and sometimes, I am.

What I find most repellant about Chomsky’s stance is his belief that the accounts of refugees – which most journalists writing on the Khmer Rouge have heavily replied upon – are intrinisically untrustworthy.

This is because refugees, presumably addled, desperate, and “unusually” opposed to the ruling regime will tell Western reporters whatever they want to hear to demonize their “enemies” and perhaps secure some measure of fame or safety for themselves.

For someone who purports to be an enemy of imperalism and an advocate for the third world, this is the absolute worst kind of patronizing twaddle. I imagine there are thousands of Khmer Rouge survivors out there who would beg to argue differently. (But perhaps they are just biased and addled too).

And as Thayer points out: if thousands upon thousands of Cambodian refugees have somehow managed to orchestrate a collective lie about the extent of Khmer Rouge atrocities—well, that massive lie would surely register as humanity’s most impressive conspiracy to date.

But, no, Chomsky holds strong in the face of overwhelming evidence:

“I am very pleased that there has been such a hysterical reaction to these writings. They’ve been analyzed with a fine tooth comb to try to find some error, and to my knowledge, the end result is that not even a misplaced comma has been found.

True, a lot of errors have been found in fabricated material attributed to me, but that’s a sign of the desperation of the apologists for state violence. If you know of an exception, I’d appreciate it if you’d inform me. I haven’t yet seen one.”

Yes, Noam. You are smarter, a better source, and a more reliable arbiter of justice than the entire Cambodian people. I am truly sorry I ever doubted you.

 

Reality Tour of Human Trafficking in Cambodia: Yes, This Actually Exists

Reality Tour of Human Trafficking in Cambodia

Yes, you too can shell out a cool $2000 to go on a “reality tour” of Cambodia’s grasping poor. Since you’re really enlightened and stuff, your money will allow you to join a “delegation” instead of a tour group, which sounds much better on those tricky grad school application essays.

The trip’s intinerary includes stops at majority Christian-run trafficking NGOs. I won’t outright knock the Christians, but my suspicions are a mite raised.

One of the ending “highlights” of the trip is a visit to the Stung Meanchey dump, where young children eke out a living by picking through trash.

The dump has become a popular destination for “tourists who really care,” allowing them to hop out of their nice AC van, take photos and hand out goodies to trash-picker goods – inadvertently making sending kids out to the dump that much more of an inviting opportunity for poor Cambodian families.

These visits are usually reviled by local NGO workers—who actually know what they are talking about, and know how the communities they serve work.

All that human trafficking can really get you down, so a trip to Angkor Wat and “three star” accomodations are included. The length of this revolutionary delegation’s trip through Cambodia? Less than two weeks. Yeah, that’ll affect some lasting change.

Or at least give participants a lot of great chances to take adorable photos of them manhandling supposedly sex-trafficked orphans.

These kind of trips are exactly what hundreds of my college student peers merrily jetted off to every summer or every lengthy break. These kids almost always came back with lots of sweet stories for their friends, and little to no deep understanding of the issues they claimed to be authorities on.

But the “Well, I MET SEX TRAFFICKED CHILDREN (insert cause here, starving Somalis, leprous Indians, homosexual Bangladeshis, what have you) AND SAW THEM WITH MY OWN EYES” defense is an awesome college-debate trump card.

Sex trafficking is a terrible, real thing. Sending “delegations” of the wealthy to poke and prod the victims is not the way to fix the problem.

I don’t really care how compelling the stories the “delegates” tell their buddies at grad school parties about their “life changing experience” are, either. Find a decent charity or aid organization – good luck with that, but that’s another blog post – and stick your $2000 there.

Alternately, come visit Cambodia as a normal, non-sanctimonious tourist. If you like it, maybe find a job. And then stay. If you’re lucky, smart, and willing to learn some humility, you might just do some good.

Two week jaunts? No way.

Addendum:

The Conceit of Nick Kristof – Rescuing Sex Slaves as Saintliness – The Naked Anthropologist

Laura Augustin neatly encapsulates why I find Kristof so irritating.

Romdeng Again: Great Food, I Still Don’t Order a Spider

Romdeng
#74 Street 174
Telephone: +855 092-219-565
Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Romdeng is the Mith Samlanh street kid’s charity Khmer training restaurant, affiliated with the more Western accented Friends, near Riverside. Set in an old colonial building, it’s a salubrious place to try authentic Khmer dishes for a pretty good cause. The waitstaff, cooks, and I believe at least some of the management are all former street kids enrolled in hospitality training programs conducted by Mith Samlanh. It’s a good idea, and, thankfully, the food is good too.

Both Romdeng and Friends do excellent frozen drinks, and I enjoyed this lychee/passionfruit/mint mixture. Would have been better with a little vodka, but this was a lunch-break-from-work type affair so I was forced to hold back.

Read more at Things I Ate in Cambodia…